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Thursday, July 29, 2010

Into The Mystic.....



New friends: The waitress, Jeradina, who was totally cool to me for 1 day and 2 nights, and James Harris, the cute musician.
Cost: I dropped some cash in Mystic. Whoopsy. Time to get back on track with the peanut butter fold overs and creative entertainment that costs nothing. Per diem is in DIRE STRAITS.


The drive to Mystic, CT from New Haven is cake. A straight shot up the coast on I-95.
I rolled into town with no plan or lodging. Not really knowing if I would stay the night or keep rolling.....

Like many before me, I'm sure,...I drove straight to Mystic Pizza. What can I say? I'm a pop culture junkie who also happens to collect T-shirts for various reasons and purposes. So I had to get a "Slice Of Heaven" t-shirt because Julia Roberts has one. If it's good enough for Julia... I had no pressing need to get pizza there, because frankly--it's kind of a joke in these parts about how bad the pizza is at Mystic Pizza. Didn't want to waste my money on something bad that wouldn't serve me in the present or in the future....

From there I walked around the charming tourist-friendly area of main street. I asked around for places that were somewhat secret...and happened upon Margarita's...for: (drumroll)....a margarita. I must give their house frozens a thumbs up--and if you get there at happy hour, they have complimentary snacks for the purchase of a drink. ($6.50).

2 margaritas helped me get in the after 5 mindset, and after meeting a cute Connecticut man who wanted more than a beer with me... I decided this was my kind of town. And just for the record: No, I didn't.

I found Bartleby's. A high quality cup of coffee with free wifi. It was there that I found my (at first) subpar motel room...which I later traded for a better one on night two.

Yes,...a place I thought I would pass through ended up being a place for me to recharge and sit still for a moment.

I stayed at the Days Inn. $90. a night. They have a pool (which you cannot break into after hours :(). It's close to everything. Free breakfast until 9:30am. Good breakfast even (make your own waffle style), with juice, coffee, muffins, etc...

Night 1, I was dying for a shower. I booked the room through Priceline and hauled ass to take a shower so I wouldn't miss dinner hours at this place I spent the better part of my afternoon looking for....

The bartender at Margarita's, spoke of a secret called "The Mystic Mile"...I heard the letters DPI being thrown around. My GPS couldn't find the DPI, dammit. It was even an accident that I found it online. I'd pretty much given up when I typed in "The Best Food In Mystic"....Up came a list of unfamiliar places. One of which was called The Captain Daniel Packer Inne. AH HAH!! D.P.I. I fucking found it!!! So, like I said: I had about 45 minutes to find the hotel, take a shower, put my face on and make a B-line.

Alas, it was so easy to find once I knew the address! It was too easy in fact. Not on the main strip, it doesn't attract tourists who are not resourceful. Only ones who aren't satisfied with being spoonfed. Only ones who know how to ask the right people the right questions. And only ones who do their homework when they sit down at a computer.

MAN WAS IT WORTH THE WILD GOOSE CHASE.

The Daniel Packer Inne is a rustic old building that has likely been there since the 1800's?. It has a pirate-like lodge feel Old stones erect the walls and the tavern part (never even went upstairs)....is like a perfect crawlspace, that all of the locals readily accept as plenty of room for everyone who shows up.

I got there in the nick of time to order my first ever lobster roll. I have been hearing this term: lobster roll, since before I left Texas. "You gotta get a lobster roll, you gotta get a lobster roll.

So here I am. Manifesting wishes.

Lobster roll it is: Hot Lobster Roll: Fresh hand picked lobster meat sautéed with a sweet sherry butter. Served on a grilled seasoned roll with crisp lettuce leaves…$15.95

And I needed something green, so I went with the D.P.I. Dinner Salad: A delicate balance of red leaf lettuce and crisp Romaine topped with crumbled blue cheese, shelled pistachios, dried cranberries and cucumbers. Drizzled with our raspberry, champagne, and maple syrup vinaigrette…$6.95


It was easily the best meal I have had on the trip so far. Period.

Just before I was finished eating, the waitress----Jeridina (sp?) gave me a heads up that I was sitting where live music would be played.

Live music? Great food? Nice waitress? Cool building? Hard to find? No white tennies and screaming children?? They are going to have to kick me out of here. And they did. After I watched the entire show put on by the lovely and talented James Harris. We made fast friends, because I was intently enthralled with his performance that all the locals seem to take for granted. I even started a sad little tipping trend (only one other person followed suit)... James is a skilled hottie who did some Stones and Wille Nelson for me. Made me miss home.

Didn't get the best night sleep, but when I decided to do Brattleboro, VT between New Hampshire and The Catskills instead of tomorrow...I was relieved to get some good hard sleep here at the Days Inn.

I'd made a decision to take a vacation from my vacation and...sleep in a bit, have free breakfast, go back to sleep like a bear, wake up at my leisure...go to the Mystic Aquarium, spend the rest of the sunlight at the pool and update my blog. A nice chill day. After doing the aquarium, I felt no guilt whatsoever for spending the better part of my afternoon/evening at the Days Inn. Got a wild hair around 11pm....and decided to show up at James's last minute gig at The Ancient Mariner.

He sounded just as sweet, and treated me like we were old friends...

They closed early-ish...so I made my way down to The Daniel Packer Inne for the 3rd time. (Went earlier for dinner between Aquarium and swimming---had the cod....not nearly as delicious as the lobster roll). There was a FABULOUS jazz band playing until the wee hour of 1am, when only the D.P.I. is still awake.....

James ended up coming down there after his gig and we were able to chat a bit before I head on down the line.

At closing time, I slipped into the ladies room waiting line. An odd fellow started yelling at me, "What are you doing now?" "Where are you going?" "Where are you staying?" "Wanna hang out?" "Why not?"

He looked like the creepy bald guy from Midnight Oil.

I politely smiled and ignored him.

Went outside to chat with the other ejectees, and he followed. WOULD NOT LET UP about where (was I) staying(?).

I slipped back in before they shut the door to say goodbye to James, and the nice bartender asked me if I wanted him to sneak me out through the kitchen. He did, and I was on my way.

Saw Midnight Oil walking, and he even started waving his arms around like I was going to pick up his drunk ass and start making out with him. DUDE! Drunk, clueless, idiots are such drunk, clueless idiots!!!

Here I am getting all up to speed, and eager to see my man, Steve Martin, rock some bluegrass in Newport tomorrow (tonight). 5th row, baby. I'll let you know.

Sadly...no photos are allowed at The International Tennis Hall Of Fame :(.....

Photos of Mystic, CT coming asap....

Delicious Beer At Christy's.


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Where Roadtrips Continue.


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One Of The Couchsurfer Angels: Kirsten.


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The Birthplace Of The Hamburger Sandwich: Louis' Lunch.


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Sleepy Ferris Wheel....


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The Beach At The Boardwalk In West Haven, CT.


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Christy's.


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Rudy's Fries. A Local Favorite.


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The Crowning Jewel Of Live Music Venues In New Haven. (Besides Cafe 9.)


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Watermelon Sherbet At Ashley's.


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Yale.


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Bookin' It To New Haven, CT

The drive to New Haven, CT from Salem was just shy of 3 hours. I don't know why I scheduled everything the way I did...but I had beds waiting for me at the times that I did, so I just swallowed the fact that I had to back track a little.....

It never occurred to me that there was crime in New Haven, and after visiting with my other Couchsurfers...I must admit I was a bit worried.

I called Kirsten and told her I was in the neighborhood, and she told me to come on over. She was very welcoming, and I enjoyed talking with her. I asked her about the crime, and she said...it was kind of "patchy". Which is what I heard prior to arrival....but not prior to making it part of my trip. "Like a checker board", I heard. One block, fine...two blocks later: sketchy. "If it feels sketchy, it is", I heard. :) Luckily, I am intuitive to a fault.

I decided to hit the town right away. I asked Kirsten some places she recommended, and enjoyed all of the areas she sent me.

Walked around Yale in downtown New Haven. She told me Rudy's was a staple and I had to get their fries...which come with your 1 choice of dozens of sauces for dipping. I got a small, with one sauce the bartender recommended...Pesto Mayo (even though I told her I wasn't a mayo fan...she said it was great), and one I chose myself for .50 extra: the curry ketchup.

The fries ($4.00+.50 for extra sauce = $4.50) were good---but, I have had better. I will say that the curry ketchup was SOOOOO much more delicious than it sounds, and I don't know if I have had a fry condiment that was so tasty. The ketchup was definitely the most notable reason to go to Rudy's (where people are Rude-y indeed. Not the bartender, but everyone else was disengaged like many people in the Northeast......not all, but MAN-NY)

Then, I went to Ashley's Ice Cream, per Kirsten's suggestion. I had the most delicious watermelon sherbet. GET THIS IF YOU GO. It was $2something for the smallest size which was more than enough.

Then, I had a beer at Christy's, an Irish bar. The bartender was cool, and recommended some nightlife places to go, as well as the boardwalk.


I was intrigued, and found my way to the boardwalk (in West Haven). It was nice. And crowded. And safe.

I headed back to Kirsten's and we talked over some beers with her boo, Paul. He was very cool too. They are smart kiddos with a cute place and I enjoyed hanging with them, and sleeping in their cool room with french doors, in their 1920's home.

The next day, I got up early enough and went to the "birthplace of the hamburger sandwich" with Kirsten. She hadn't ever been to Louis Lunch. It is famous, and all over the Food Network. We split a hamburger (which is all they have---the way they do it...and don't ask for condiments because it will insult them.) The line gets long, but we were among the first to arrive and didn't have to wait that long.

We split a Louis Lunch, so I could save room for Frank Pepe's famous white clam pizza. I have heard of this stuff for ages.

New Haven is famous for their pizza (which they often call, Apizza (pronounced Uh-Beets). Often covered in what real Italians call... fresh "Mootz".

Makes me want to learn I-talian, y'all!!!.

I go back to Kirsten's place with her, and pack my bags....because I just...felt like moving. It's nice to have wiggle room in your road trip plans. I was feeling---more like a small town, and like.... exploding my car's contents all over the place so I could regroup.

I left, GPS (on phone) in hand....and tried to make my way to Frank Pepe's on the way out of town. Heard that if I was going to get pizza---THIS was where I needed to get it. So, I called in an order before I drove there.

Well...... my GPS must have been picking it's nose---because my fellow couchsurfer had driven me past Pepe's, and the GPS was not leading me anywhere near where she drove me.

Before I knew it, I was in 40oz., glock 9, red bandanna-ville hoping I didn't get shot while I drove by.

I quickly made a U-turn and tore the side of my tire on the curb.

A big scary, deep, silver shit coming out of the sidewall tear.

Somehow, it was drivable...so I just kept driving to Pepe's.

I had to pick up my Uhh-Beets, y'know? Fuhhgettabowtit.

So I pick it up. Looks and smells other-worldly. Ask the dude at the register if he knows a place I can get my tire fixed.

HARK! There was a Firestone RIGHT THERE. I took my pizza in there and fed the boys behind the counter (my clam pizza wasn't getting any fresher)....Maybe it was a coincidence that they helped me right away when they were that busy....but I think it was the Pepe's.

I didn't even have to pay for it ;).

Back on the road.....I would now sleep in Mystic, CT :)......

(Photos coming soon.....TAKES FOREVER.)

Full Moon In Salem, MA.












New friends: Sarah, fellow Couchsurfer.
Cost: ?? It was a few days ago now. I always did one meal from my cooler... but definitely tried some "must try" suggestions of Sarah's. I also premeditated a shopping spree in Witch City...which the cost of is NUNYA.

When I first arrived in Salem, MA...I had a good feeling pulling into town. A good feeling followed by total body goosebumps.

I immediately drove to Wal-Mart to change clothes, take a whore's bath, and put some makeup on...because I didn't want to meet Sarah looking like a girl who just rolled out of someone's couch and got in the car wearing no bra.

Mission accomplished without any guilt whatsoever that I was not a customer.

I rolled into town around 12pm or so. I decided to hit the town for some sights and shopping before I went to Sarah's. Found a parking spot downtown easily. YES!

Went into this witchy store I read about online called HEX. Don't let the name scare you off. It certainly has the spirit of Halloween and Voodoo all over the place...but it also has nice candles, soaps, oils jewelry and psychic readings.

When I went in and saw the woman reading in the window, I felt something kind of rush over me. I think it was fear. She had an obviously strong presence: Long black dyed hair, tons of bracelets up both arms, a ring on every finger....and a resonant charismatic voice.

The man at the counter was equally as charismatic. He had an East Coast accent, and a cute whistling gap between his teeth. He was adorably gay. (As opposed to annoyingly gay---you know the difference. Same difference exists amongst straight men. Annoyingly straight men are the worst.) Anyway, he complimented me on my cowboy hat (People just DO NOT WEAR cowboy hats up here), and he liked my tiger bag. We hit it off and started talking. I had chosen some oils to buy, and mentioned that I made my own sometimes too. The woman in the window was standing by us and said, "Ah,...you make your own, do you?". She had a mischievious sound to her voice and a knowing look. I liked her. She looked "real".

After several hours of walking around, I needed a break and called Sarah. She gave me directions and told me to come on over for a rest.

Sarah was way cool. She was incredibly knowledgeable about Salem's witch and maritime history. She knew all the groovy places in town and told me what to eat and drink where. I took her up on all of her suggestions....and she was right about everything.

Best alcoholic beverage: Blueberry Beer @ BeerWorks (just realized there is more than one Beer Works...but I don't think we have them in Texas). This place is not crawling with tourists either. And 3 people told me to get their burger, so I did. It was fantastic as well.

Best Breakfast And Coffee: Gulu Gulu. Iced Vanilla Latte and a DELECTABLE breakfast crepe, filled with bacon, eggs and the most amazing white cheese EVER.

Least Touristy Night Spot: Dodge Street Bar And Grill

Best Experience In Salem: A reading with Lori Bruno.

The woman I saw in the store, came up in conversation with Sarah. She definitely knew who I was talking about. She mentioned that this woman was quite reputable in the Psychic department. I HAD TO FIND HER AGAIN!!! I mean....I'm on this trip (for fun, to miss Austin again...and....) because I'm trying to figure out WTF is going on in my life, right?

I was able to get an appointment first thing, on my second day in Salem.

This woman dropped names of people from my life, and made no mistakes. She gave me personal messages from those close to me.... who have crossed to the other side. She told me I would fall in love between 9-19 months. She said I would lose weight :) and keep it off :) :) :). She knew my parent's astrological signs, and said that I come from a line of "gifted" people. She knew my heritage....my secrets, my wishes, worries, and victories. I was overwhelmed. I cried. SHE WAS TOTALLY INCREDIBLE.

A reading with Lori Bruno, At HEX in Salem, MA, is $40. for 20 minutes. I haven't ever experienced anyone this good. Loved her vibe.

I left the next day, and headed to New Haven, CT......

The Best Caprese Salad I Have Ever Tasted....


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First Time To Chew Octopus....


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Sauteed Octopus


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The Finished Cucumber Gin Cocktail


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The Lovely And Talented Amy Juicing Cucumbers...


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Walt And His Hendrick's Gin...


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Cucumber And Gin...A Great Combination...


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The Men Making Cocktails


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Octopus On The Grill


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Burt's Sexy Clam Photo


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The Most Delicious Clams. EVER.


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Octopus Marinanting....


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The Freshest Cilantro From The Farmer's Market


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Walt And The Magic Black Bean Mixture...


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Mike and Amy in Providence, RI


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Saturday, July 24, 2010

Last night in Providence






Total: $19.
New Friends: Amy, Mike, Burt, Walt
Tourist attraction confession: The Breakers, in Newport, RI
Anti-tourist victory: Eating octopus for the first time with awesome locals.



This morning I got up and toured the most opulent of all the Newport Mansions, The Breakers.

It was touristy---but amazing.

Much like Graceland in the self-tour-with-headphones style, and level of fanny-pack attraction....but, it made Graceland look plain, modest, and tiny in it's over the top size and gawdy-ness.

And if you know me, you know that I am gawdy...so this place was truly a disgusting display of wealth. Jaw-dropping awe indeed, but....gross and "conspicuous consumption". My friend noted that it was pretty "irresponsible".

Everything was carved, everything was marble, leather, gold, platinum or draped with several different unapologetically rich fabrics. Too much, too much, too much. (For the Queen of Too Much to say this....you know you have to be dealing with something awfully unlawful).

The size of it is just.... silly.

It is..... I must say, a must see---even though I hate tourists and the places they love. As long as you have an irreverent partner (Thanks, Nancy)---you will have a good time. I did, and I did.

The highlight of the tour is the second floor balcony overlooking the Atlantic Ocean with nothing to spoil the view except other tourists. Ones from other countries yelling over the earphones which were turned up high and right up against my drums.

If there's one thing you learn from tourist attractions, it's how stupid people spoil everything. Not to sound angry, but....I sure would have loved to see The Breakers without clueless, oblivious, idiots not paying attention to the fact that they weren't the only people on the tour, thereby NOT ALLOWING ME to pretend that I was ;).---(Yes, I hear the irony.)

Anyway, I am glad I went...believe it or not, because it made me feel conscientious, modest, brilliant, humble and frugal. :) Thank you, The Breakers. I needed that.

Tour of JUST The Breakers, is $19. I had a peanut butter sandwich for breakfast and a 1/2 tuna for lunch. (Already paid for).
----------------------------------------------------

After The Newport Mansion tour, I drove back towards Providence to an area called Cranston. It is here that I would meet up with some of the nicest, most generous strangers I would ever meet. Mike and Amy.

They had a couple of old friends in from out of town, and were doing their 4th annual "Taste Of Providence". They are both chefs. They went to a farmer's market's and got all of these delectable ingredients to fashion a 10 course tapas menu...complete with pairings of beverages and cocktails.

It was an overwhelming experience in the best possible way.

We had: Corn tostadas with black bean/cilantro and lime puree', topped with queso fresca. Clams in coconut milk with curry and cilantro. BBQ-ed Octopus. Caprese salad (Best, sweetest, crispest tomatoes I have ever tasted). Bulgoki lettuce wraps, and tons of cocktails made from scratch. Fresh squeezed lemonade with delicious tequila, strained cucumber and ginger with cucumber gin, A delicious tequila, lime and grapefruit soda (Ting) concoction....

I really want to get going to Salem in the morning...but, they are going to have scallops a la Eggs Benedict style, Scrambled eggs with pigeon, and do something or other with Lobster?? I think?... I'm tickled they asked me, but I feel like exploring tomorrow. I've been in Rhode Island a while now.

Anyway, I really felt lucky to have been invited to have such a great experience with these sweet and talented people. The Gods shined down on me tonight for sure. Thank you Amy and Mike (and Burt and Walt). I had so much fun and y'all are amazing.

Tomorrow, I meet Sarah---the nursing student, who was kind enough to let a strange girl from Texas stay on her couch in Salem. I'm pretty f-ing excited. The moon will be full......

(I'll do Tapas photos tomorrow. I'm tired.)

Nancy's Place in North Kingstown, RI.


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Though Irreverent: Happy For Now.


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The Beach In North Kingstown, RI.


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The Bridge To Newport, RI.


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Newport Beach, Newport, RI.


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The Atlantic Ocean. Ocean Drive. Newport, RI


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Kung Pao Calamari at Anthony's. Delightful.


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Don't let the walk-up vibe fool you. Best seafood EVER. Flo's.


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